The long awaited StromBecker hopper has been finished, sans couplers. I have run out of dummy couplers, but I am reaching a point where I need to consider what sort of operational couplers to use. My biggest concern are the radii on my layout, so more than likely truck mounted couplers will need to be considered. As for the trucks on this model, they are an unknown 1940s - 1950s heavy diecast variety, which resemble Megow, though they do actually use what appears to be rubber cushioning for springs.
As with my other StromBecker builds, I used clothing snaps for the brake wheel.
Overall, I'm pleased with it. I can't wait to see it on the line.
The Unplanned Camelback
As I mentioned in my previous post, I was unsure what to do with those parts I purchased. I decided to simply reassemble the shell as nest I could, using E6000 with aluminum tabs for the initial assembly before moving on to J-B Weld for the permanent repair. After some sanding/filing/grumbling, I managed to smooth the joint down as best as possible. For some time I wondered if these parts may have come from two different shells, but on closer inspection believe this was just one shell. What has happened is as the parts have aged there has been some warping, as happens with these castings occasionally. I suspect we have reached the end of that... I hope.
Once I had that done, I decided to just go with rebuilding the Camelback. A previous owner had reversed the motor's position on the mounting strip, and the only way to undo that was to take the motor apart and rotate it 180º around. This resulted in hours of grief, as the bearings and armature were now improperly aligned. I should mention that before this I had reassembled that mounting strip using copper sheet and our friend E6000.
After getting the motor to run again it was attached to the chassis using E6000 again in addition to the couple of mounting screws remaining. I needed it to be in position as firmly as possible.
Test fitting the shell revealed another problem - the top of the motor was preventing the shell from going all the way to the chassis. Further inspection revealed the reason - the chassis and steamchest had been modified as well.
Using J-B Weld SteelStik I fashioned replacement sections, which were filed and sanded into shape as best as possible, based upon pictures of New One Camelback kits.
With that accomplished, the entire model was reassembled, and for the first time on who knows how long, the little locomotive's motor was run.
Now, we just need to wait for warmer weather to prime the model and prep it for its final paint.
One final observation.
Philadelphia & Reading A4 and A5 Camelbacks were actually kind of small. Compared with my other 0-4-0's, this locomotive is not. In fact, it's kind of chunky and not correct in proportions. Measuring it reveals that it is probably 1/80 scale, common for H0j (Japanese H0) than 1/87. This means that if the model were regauged it would probably look right on proper 00 scale track, 19mm. American OO Today, if you're reading this...
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